I don't know - is it? :confused013:
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New Traction Bar Design
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5X0.011 VS 5X0.012 vco injectors
I am going to be in the market for injectors pretty soon and was looking for some opinions. I’m wanting to get the most power I can out of them but not haze at idle or black the sun out. The truck will have hx35, cold air intake, hungry diesel fuel pin and gov spring, pump turned up and piston lift pump. Main goal is to get atleast 300hp. Anyone have any experience with 5x11 or 5x12 vco ‘s. Thanks
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Unlock cable required?
I have a 2014 5500 c&c looking to delete. I have an autocal already so I am familiar with efi live just never done a 6.7. Ive read that you have to have an unlock cable to efi and Ive read that its not needed anymore unless on a 2018. Can someone clear that up for sure for me? I cant seem to find a for sure answer as to if I need it or not to tune with my autocal. Also can I gut the dpf and scr without any issues? Running 5 isnt an option due to I have a pto and hydraulic pump on the transmission so I dontt think it will clear. Any help is appreciated!
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New Truck!
2018 2500 CTD, SLT, Big Horn, Off Road Pkg. Traded my 2017 F250. So far it has been great! The thing that stands out the most so far is the difference in maneuverability due to the shorter wheel base/tighter turning radius. UConnect is top notch, no need for navigation with Car Play/Android Auto and I love the configurability of the driver display! For me, I had to resolve two concerns 1) the 68RFE transmission vs the 6R140 in terms of quality and 2) giving up the aluminum body(body rust where salt is used on the road). Best I can tell the 68RFE is a great transmission provided that the engine is left stock(not an issue for me) and the corrosion protection on the Ram seems to be pretty good or is at least manageable with a little TLC. Very happy so far.
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68RFE acting weird
Well I got a Randy’s Transmission DIY 700 horse kit (the whole input drum, tc, shaft, etc.) installed in my trans by a very reputable trans shop a month ago. I got everything new including modified vb and pump. It drive and holds powerful wonderfully when I’m actually getting into the throttle. If I try and just drive the truck like a normal human being I’m having a weird issue of it bucking/lunging and a weird shift.
It tries to lunge when putting it in R and D. Sometimes it does it right off the bat when I first start it, sometimes not, and sometimes it does it the whole entire day when I drive it. At first I thought it was because of the increased line pressure. Now lately it’s just beginning to be annoying and kind of ridiculous.
Another issue I’m having is a weird really aggressive down shift either between 4-3 or 3-2. Usually when it does it I notice the CTS says third with the torque converter locked but I get back into the throttle it’ll switch quick to show 5th with the torque converter locked.
I’m not sure it’s a pressure issue or something trans related but I’m hoping to get some insight.
Thanks in advance for any input/advice!
It tries to lunge when putting it in R and D. Sometimes it does it right off the bat when I first start it, sometimes not, and sometimes it does it the whole entire day when I drive it. At first I thought it was because of the increased line pressure. Now lately it’s just beginning to be annoying and kind of ridiculous.
Another issue I’m having is a weird really aggressive down shift either between 4-3 or 3-2. Usually when it does it I notice the CTS says third with the torque converter locked but I get back into the throttle it’ll switch quick to show 5th with the torque converter locked.
I’m not sure it’s a pressure issue or something trans related but I’m hoping to get some insight.
Thanks in advance for any input/advice!
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2006 engine rebuild 5.9
rebuilding engine 2006 5.9 when it went to the machine shop there was small plastic plugs in the oil holes under the main bearings when it came back they were not there, the oil holes go through the block and point towards the pistons , what are they and do they need to be there nothing in new gasket set thanks dan
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Help with turbo and programmer
I have a 2nd gen 3500 2wd that is my daily driver. The truck is fully loaded (11,520 lbs) all the time as it is my welding rig and my ride everywhere I go. I also have a tool trailer that I pull from time to time as well as a camper. The tool trailer is an 8'6" wide by 28' long by 8' tall enclosed cargo trailer with a 2' slight V nose. The total weight for the trailer and all equipment/tools is 12,780 lbs. The camper is about the same size but weighs a good bit less. Both the camper and tool trailer might only be towed once every 2-3 months and destination could be anywhere in continental North America but is usually South East US area so, altitude is not very often above 1000'. I have done some mods and, this posting is mostly to try and figure out what programmer and turbo would best suit my application since I have only built P-pumped 12 valves and have absolutely no experience with tuners and programmers.
The specifics for my truck are: 265 75R 16 tires on original steel wheels, 3.55 Dana 80 rear, NV4500 with upgraded input shaft and fifth gear nut, south bend dual disc clutch, 2" daystar front leveling kit, airlift 5000 rear bags, airlift 1000 front bags, S&B cold air intake, Mishimoto performance intercooler, Mishimoto performance radiator, Banks high ram 3.5" with the 3.5" tube from intercooler, Banks grid delete, Banks silicone boots, BD diesel boost elbow, ATS boost fooler, pulse tuned 3 piece exhaust manifold (dont remember brand), 5" turbo back exhaust (straight pipe), Fass 165 titanium lift pump, VP44 stock but less than 60k miles, DDP 75hp sticks, stock turbo (thinking of installing II Boxer 58 that I already have on one of my 12 valves), no programmer/tuner, Autometer pyro, fuel pressure, and boost gauges. I think that's about it. Again, I'm looking for what turbo and programmer would best suit my setup. It is a daily driver but, I will never cross over the California state line, obviously. I'm looking to have plenty of passing power (when not towing) above 55mph which this truck is seriously lacking. With my tool trailer, I feel like I'm pulling a giant sail behind me and struggle to get above 65mph. I would like to be able to run whatever speed I like when pulling it but, I also would like to keep smoke to a minimum. Thanks for any help in advance.
The specifics for my truck are: 265 75R 16 tires on original steel wheels, 3.55 Dana 80 rear, NV4500 with upgraded input shaft and fifth gear nut, south bend dual disc clutch, 2" daystar front leveling kit, airlift 5000 rear bags, airlift 1000 front bags, S&B cold air intake, Mishimoto performance intercooler, Mishimoto performance radiator, Banks high ram 3.5" with the 3.5" tube from intercooler, Banks grid delete, Banks silicone boots, BD diesel boost elbow, ATS boost fooler, pulse tuned 3 piece exhaust manifold (dont remember brand), 5" turbo back exhaust (straight pipe), Fass 165 titanium lift pump, VP44 stock but less than 60k miles, DDP 75hp sticks, stock turbo (thinking of installing II Boxer 58 that I already have on one of my 12 valves), no programmer/tuner, Autometer pyro, fuel pressure, and boost gauges. I think that's about it. Again, I'm looking for what turbo and programmer would best suit my setup. It is a daily driver but, I will never cross over the California state line, obviously. I'm looking to have plenty of passing power (when not towing) above 55mph which this truck is seriously lacking. With my tool trailer, I feel like I'm pulling a giant sail behind me and struggle to get above 65mph. I would like to be able to run whatever speed I like when pulling it but, I also would like to keep smoke to a minimum. Thanks for any help in advance.
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Year information
Hey guys,
I’ve been doing a lot of research into the auto to manual swaps, pros and cons and so forth. However I do have a question, I own a truck that has a manufacturing date of 10/04. Is it possible to use a G56 in the truck if I wanted to? I understand the G56 was introduced during 05, but is there any blocks you guys can see I would run into besides the normal stuff if I went to use a G56 in my truck? I’d love to know, thanks.
I’ve been doing a lot of research into the auto to manual swaps, pros and cons and so forth. However I do have a question, I own a truck that has a manufacturing date of 10/04. Is it possible to use a G56 in the truck if I wanted to? I understand the G56 was introduced during 05, but is there any blocks you guys can see I would run into besides the normal stuff if I went to use a G56 in my truck? I’d love to know, thanks.
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2018 Ram 2500 Leveling kit
Hey guys. I am looking to level my ram 2500 4x4. I was loking into it and wondering if I need to get an adjustable track bar as well. My local guy who is going to put it on says no but I have seen multiple people online saying you need to puit an adjustable track bar.. Also would it be a good thing to add upgraded steering brace? I am running half inch over stock tires. Thanks.
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Need 1992 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
The voltage regulator inside the ECM of my 92 seems to have gone bad and I am having a hard time finding a replacement ECM. 2 used and 2 rebuilt units have not worked and been returned. Anybody know where I can get a NOS OEM unit, or perhaps help me find a place that can rebuild this ECM 100% correctly? The module part number is #56027081 for the unit on my truck.
If I can't find help with this my thinking is then to try connecting and external voltage regulator and bypass the ECM. Anybody ever try this?
Thanks,
Dave
If I can't find help with this my thinking is then to try connecting and external voltage regulator and bypass the ECM. Anybody ever try this?
Thanks,
Dave
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NEED HELP - shock install-busted bolt in San Diego
I was replacing my shocks and managed to bust off one of the bolts/studs that secures driver's side shock tower.
Anyone know how to replace?
Or what exactly it is - captured bolt/welded stud - something else?
I think I need to drop the front axle, remove the coil and somehow weld/replace the stud. This would be more than I'm comfortable with doing in my driveway. Any recommendations on who could do something like this in San Diego? I was thinking 4 Wheel Parts or ORW booth of which are local.
Appreciate any help.
Anyone know how to replace?
Or what exactly it is - captured bolt/welded stud - something else?
I think I need to drop the front axle, remove the coil and somehow weld/replace the stud. This would be more than I'm comfortable with doing in my driveway. Any recommendations on who could do something like this in San Diego? I was thinking 4 Wheel Parts or ORW booth of which are local.
Appreciate any help.
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Supplier Discount - Is it the best you can do?
I can get the supplier discount on a Ram; which I know is 1% under invoice, but is really that the best way to buy a new Ram, or could I do as good or better by waiting for the right dealer and putting the screws down on a dealer? Hoping to buy close to year end, would be considering something like a well equipped Big Horn 4x4.
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2012 dodge 2500 6.7
Hello guys I need some help. I have a 2012 dodge 2500 not deleted. I got into my truck today and went to put it into drive and it automatically went into Manuel mode first gear. I can't switch gears once I'm in Manuel mode either. I can put it back into park though. I tried unplugging the batteries but that didn't work. Is their anything I can do to fix it, or how much will it cost to have it fixed? Thanks!
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In-Frame Rebuild Kits
What's everyone's experiences with rebuild kits without pulling the motor completely? I want to do compression and blow-by test before the tear down, anything else I can look for? I had several injectors crack badly, as well as various seals all around the engine letting go. I want to know if I can fix it reasonably, or if I have to cut my losses and get a new engine.
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2014 6.7L raceme ultra tuner
I have a 2014 3500 with a raceme ultra tuner. I am looking at buying a 5â stainless steel, straight pipe exhaust system. What are some decent online companies that are good to go through? Any specific systems that are better. Just thought I would ask around and get some advice. Thanks!
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99 24v tach works then drops to zero after start up
I need some serious help I’ve replaced both crank sensor and the cam sensor and tach still works on start up but then drops to zero I’m about had it with this truck
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99 24v tach works then drops to zero after start up
I need some serious help I’ve replaced both crank sensor and the cam sensor and tach still works on start up but then drops to zero I’m about had it with this truck
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Help choosing a secondary over a s480
I need help deciding on a secondary t4 charger. I ran a 64/71/14 over s480 on an old setup and it ran good. The engine is now rebuilt and built to handle some power. Kind of have have my eye on a 366sxe. In years past the 366/480 was the combo of choice for 1k hp. So I imagine the sxe line should improve on that some? Im thinking the .91 turbine housing with the 73mm wheel. Trick is strictly a toy. Never going to haul a trailer. Just looking to make a ton of power on the dyno, hook to a sled, and drive it on the road occasionally.
Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
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Error code help
Trucks a 98 12v auto seems like it starts in 2nd or 3rd if i manually shift the truck I get 2nd and 3rd and od but stays in 2nd when i shift to 1st these are the codes that came up
P0122
P0123
P1762
P1764
2 are for govoner pressure and 2 are for tps
So the truck has the tps delete that is in the picture would that be the reason for the 2 codes on tps
P0122
P0123
P1762
P1764
2 are for govoner pressure and 2 are for tps
So the truck has the tps delete that is in the picture would that be the reason for the 2 codes on tps
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Level kit vs Swaybar vs end link position.
Well.
1994 old school swaybar and end links , aka not modern 01 and up configure.
Trying to put steering brace and sway bar back on my cons 1994 .
It's has 1 1/4" level rubber looking block.
If I install the swaybar in oem position the end links aren't to happy looking .
If I " flip " the end links to the top of the holes ( I hear this works with lifted trucks ) mock it all up and the end links are no where near happy . Like that trick only works with substantial lifts .
I have not flipped the swaybar itself , originally I thought that's what people were doing , but I was wrong , flipping was referring to the end links install position.
Looking for advice please , this stuff is really heavy as the steering brace traps the bar in such a way , you have to lift them Both at once into position.
Thank you
1994 old school swaybar and end links , aka not modern 01 and up configure.
Trying to put steering brace and sway bar back on my cons 1994 .
It's has 1 1/4" level rubber looking block.
If I install the swaybar in oem position the end links aren't to happy looking .
If I " flip " the end links to the top of the holes ( I hear this works with lifted trucks ) mock it all up and the end links are no where near happy . Like that trick only works with substantial lifts .
I have not flipped the swaybar itself , originally I thought that's what people were doing , but I was wrong , flipping was referring to the end links install position.
Looking for advice please , this stuff is really heavy as the steering brace traps the bar in such a way , you have to lift them Both at once into position.
Thank you
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