I have a 06 dodge 2500 and I see pictures of fancy colored ones. My question is does that make a difference in power or mileage?
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Intake horn
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P020a-g this is weird... help please..
so over a month ago 2 days after doing an oil and fuel filter change the truck started acting up( 2010 6.7 mini maxx completely deleted). I was driving to work and randomly got p020c and p020d. it was weird truck was running great no noticeable power loss. and they were coming back within 10 miles. I made a post on here but wasn't getting any help. so after not experiencing power lose or any noticeable change. also no white smoke. I was confident I was mechanically sound. kept clearing it and drove on. then 2 days later it started getting weird. I started recording what codes it was throwing before I cleared them then later started recording how long until the check engine light came on by recording mileage. keep an eye on what cylinders come on. there may be one number multiple times in a row but then later it will be left out.... just strange..
in this list each number simply refers to cylinder number, all refer to p020a-b-c-d-e-f-g. fuel injector performance.
each line is a different time clearing the codes.
12346
146
1245
2346
3456
13456
12346
12345
started recording with mileage and tune
33miles stock tune CEL cylinders 3456
28miles stock tune CEL cyl 12346
66miles tow tune no cel yet cyl 561
70 miles tow tune cel cyl 12346
30 miles tow tune cel cyl 152
71 miles street tune no cell yet 12345
125miles street tune CEL 123456 ALL
38 miles street tune cel 245
62 miles tune unknown cel 12456
150MILES tow tune cel ALL 6
120 miles tow tune cel 1234 +random p2413 Egr system performance(All deleted???)
42miles on tow tune cel only 15
25miles tow tune no cel NO codes yet
78miles unknown tune no cel yet 42
79miles cel after hard acceleration street tune 43
thats where my insane amount of info ends
so again through all of this the truck runs great idles great no smoke on start up. all of its power. just there stupid codes. also awhile back I returned the truck to stock and reinstalled the mini maxx. nothing same results. There is almost no info out there on these codes out there. any ideas? PLZ help me figure this out.....
in this list each number simply refers to cylinder number, all refer to p020a-b-c-d-e-f-g. fuel injector performance.
each line is a different time clearing the codes.
12346
146
1245
2346
3456
13456
12346
12345
started recording with mileage and tune
33miles stock tune CEL cylinders 3456
28miles stock tune CEL cyl 12346
66miles tow tune no cel yet cyl 561
70 miles tow tune cel cyl 12346
30 miles tow tune cel cyl 152
71 miles street tune no cell yet 12345
125miles street tune CEL 123456 ALL
38 miles street tune cel 245
62 miles tune unknown cel 12456
150MILES tow tune cel ALL 6
120 miles tow tune cel 1234 +random p2413 Egr system performance(All deleted???)
42miles on tow tune cel only 15
25miles tow tune no cel NO codes yet
78miles unknown tune no cel yet 42
79miles cel after hard acceleration street tune 43
thats where my insane amount of info ends
so again through all of this the truck runs great idles great no smoke on start up. all of its power. just there stupid codes. also awhile back I returned the truck to stock and reinstalled the mini maxx. nothing same results. There is almost no info out there on these codes out there. any ideas? PLZ help me figure this out.....
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Made a mistake
I have a 2006 automatic. Was on the interstate doing 75mph. I was around 2500 rpm which now that I researched it is the correct rpm to be at. I hit tow haul mode being an idiot and the rpm shot up to 3500. I imidiate caught it and hit the button twice to get it back to regular. Am I good? Does the transmission keep it from over reviving the engine? I’ve always owned a manual.
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1990 250 Grille upgrades
Hello everyone, ok i just finished installing a ford intercooler in my 90 w250 pick up non intercooled core support. I have looked for weeks and cant find a bar style grille or a mesh grille for my truck. Im sure ill have to do custom but does anyone have pictures of what a mesh grill on the earlyer 250s looks like or know where i could get a flat bar style grille from
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FCA or Arson III Kit?
Background:
Been having an erractic rail pressure issue, jumping +-3000psi while cruising and accelerating. It's pretty inconsistent and seems random.
So far: I've unplugged the FCA and it slowly went up to 26k psi. After I plugged it back in it took 19 sec to recover. I still need to check the psi at the lift pimp which I will hopefully do later tonight after work.
So do I just replace my FCA or do I bite the bullet and get the arson kit? Goals for the truck are in the 600-700hp range and so far it has a 66/74/14 turbo, head studs, intake, intake manifold, 5"exhaust, valair dual disk, and all stock fuel system. Really not looking to go crazy on fuel... Maybe nozzles in the future.
Thanks in advance![]()
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Been having an erractic rail pressure issue, jumping +-3000psi while cruising and accelerating. It's pretty inconsistent and seems random.
So far: I've unplugged the FCA and it slowly went up to 26k psi. After I plugged it back in it took 19 sec to recover. I still need to check the psi at the lift pimp which I will hopefully do later tonight after work.
So do I just replace my FCA or do I bite the bullet and get the arson kit? Goals for the truck are in the 600-700hp range and so far it has a 66/74/14 turbo, head studs, intake, intake manifold, 5"exhaust, valair dual disk, and all stock fuel system. Really not looking to go crazy on fuel... Maybe nozzles in the future.
Thanks in advance
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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Why does it say to change fuel filters?
I changed fuel filter, less than 100 gallons and 1000 miles ago, and reset the gauge. But a notice popped up that there is 0% life yet.
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Key Fob will start truck but not unlock doors.
Hey y'all! I have a 2010.5 Ram 3500 and bought a key fob online. I took the truck to a locksmith yesterday where he cut the new key and programmed it. It will turn the truck on but will not unlock the doors. What do I do? Thanks yall!
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Transmission stuck in 2nd
I recently bought a 98.5 24 valve, truck has a quadzilla tuner, fass lift pump and 150hp injectors , runs great 182k . Now if you put the truck in drive it’s stuck in one gear, 2nd. But if you drop the truck down to first it works, and you can manually shift it up to 2nd but after that nothing. You put it in the drive and doesn’t shift up or down. Is this a solenoid & transducer issue or speed sensor or is my tranny toast? Any helps greatly appreciated !
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Truck got hit, now looking at bumper options. White truck owners look!
Greeting all,
My white '15 Laramie 2500 was hit while parked at the boat ramp and Im about to take it to the shop to get repaired. Ive gotten the estimate of $3000, but I want to take this opportunity to get rid of some of the chrome crap that is on my truck. The options as I see them are:
1) get a paintable rear bumper and have the shop match it to the struck. This would be almost dollar to dollar the same as getting a replacement chrome bumper. This would also leave my front bumper a steel chrome bumper which may look odd until I can get the off-road bumper that I hope to in the future.
2) the shop can tweak the existing chrome bumper as it was barely nudged, and can take it to the Line-x shop next door and have the front and back bumpers and side rails done with the line-x premium for even money as well. This would get rid of alot of the chrome, and Id be down to the mirrors, grill and door handles, plus the headlights. (The tail lights are getting swapped in the repair for the blacked out ones.
2.5) #2 + I can get the grill assembly line-xed for an additional $200 which would come out of pocket, but Im unsure if it would be too much black up there.
3) throw in about $300 and get a Road Armor rear bumper, then just add the front down the road. Again with this, having two different styles of bumpers for an unknown period of time is concerning.
Now a couple of questions... Does anyone have any pictures of a similar Laramie with the bumpers coated in Line-x? Is the paintable font bumper for the 2500's steel or fiberglass?
If I were to get the rear white, and buy a paintable front, I imagine it would cost me $800+ if it were a steel bumper, and painting over the chrome is a no-go.
Thanks for staying with me this long post up some pictures if you got them, or other ideas. I tried to search with limited results and my google-fu was pretty weak.
Chris
My white '15 Laramie 2500 was hit while parked at the boat ramp and Im about to take it to the shop to get repaired. Ive gotten the estimate of $3000, but I want to take this opportunity to get rid of some of the chrome crap that is on my truck. The options as I see them are:
1) get a paintable rear bumper and have the shop match it to the struck. This would be almost dollar to dollar the same as getting a replacement chrome bumper. This would also leave my front bumper a steel chrome bumper which may look odd until I can get the off-road bumper that I hope to in the future.
2) the shop can tweak the existing chrome bumper as it was barely nudged, and can take it to the Line-x shop next door and have the front and back bumpers and side rails done with the line-x premium for even money as well. This would get rid of alot of the chrome, and Id be down to the mirrors, grill and door handles, plus the headlights. (The tail lights are getting swapped in the repair for the blacked out ones.
2.5) #2 + I can get the grill assembly line-xed for an additional $200 which would come out of pocket, but Im unsure if it would be too much black up there.
3) throw in about $300 and get a Road Armor rear bumper, then just add the front down the road. Again with this, having two different styles of bumpers for an unknown period of time is concerning.
Now a couple of questions... Does anyone have any pictures of a similar Laramie with the bumpers coated in Line-x? Is the paintable font bumper for the 2500's steel or fiberglass?
If I were to get the rear white, and buy a paintable front, I imagine it would cost me $800+ if it were a steel bumper, and painting over the chrome is a no-go.
Thanks for staying with me this long post up some pictures if you got them, or other ideas. I tried to search with limited results and my google-fu was pretty weak.
Chris
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Howdy
Hey guys, sold my 01 24 valve 5speed last fall and now ive got the sellers remorse.... anyway lookin to find a 2nd gen to play with.
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Belt ate a wire
The serp belt on my 07.5 shredded and took a wire harness, connector, and harness bracket and wrapped it around the power steering pulley. I cannot for the life of me figure out what the wires are for. The bracket I believe, came from the bottom driver side fan shroud mount. The female connector that is still there on a pigtail, next to the balancer, Is grey and 6-prong. Any help tracking it down would be greatly appreciated. thanks !
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Quick VE 24v pump swap question
When doing a VE pump swap onto a 98 24v vp44 truck with a VE suitable-electric lift pump and swapping timing case
Do i HAVE to remove the camshaft?
Do i HAVE to remove the camshaft?
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HELP!! Truck dies when put in gear
Hello all any input or similar experiences are welcomed. The trucks a 2001 ram 2500 qclb with a bone stock motor.I’ve had my transmission rebuilt a month or so back and today I’ve been experiencing some issues i drove it all week and it shifted decent (first and second shifts kind of lazy without giving heavy throttle) the trans has a billet triple disk converter and billet input shaft along with some valve body work and it shifts good all 4 gears when it should. This week i noticed i got really poor fuel economy I went thru almost half a tank in maybe 50-60miles of driving which caught my attention but today after refueling I felt of loss of power. The truck then was very sluggish and wouldn’t go past 35mph but it did shift when it was supposed to, it felt really jerky and sounded like it was dying. the trucks idle sounds ok In park or in nuetral but dies when it’s put into gear and cranks for bit to start back up. No codes came up and I have no idea what could be wrong any input would be appreciated, Thanks!!
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Truck makes a loud hum
When I am driving around 40-50 MPH and i'm low RPM such as barely downhill or level ground, my truck makes a loud hum. Is this typical for diesel engines? It doesn't necessarily sound like the engine is struggling but figured id ask.
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Blaming all of you
Just bought my 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 extended cab and drove it for two days. This truck is totally stock and has been owned by a family member since new. It has 289,000 on it with a rebuild on trans. about 60000 miles ago and head gasket replaced. I noticed it needed a radiator so I purchased one but before I installed it I started reading the forums. Now I have ordered turbo, injectors, exhaust manifold and exhaust, Banks Twin Ram intake, delivery valves, Attitude Adjuster, fuel pump, cylinder head, valve springs, governor springs, BHAF and AFE tube, steering box, steering stabilizer brace, and have got a price for complete trans rebuild with torque converter and billet shafts. I am sure I left something out LOL. My wife said I can't play with yall anymore LOL So I am blaming all on you LOL :wink2: Also every part for HAVC system and a new upper dash.
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Super Singles on 3rd Gen
Hey, All!
Wanted to ask the community this because I can't seem to find the right wheel Type on Google.
I'm looking for a Super Single rear wheel for my 07 Dually that ISN'T the Big Rig Style. Or At least something smaller than a 19" rim. I don't like the look of 20's on the 3rd Gens.
What will I need to run it? Spacers or a special hub?
Any and all suggestions welcome! Thank you!
Wanted to ask the community this because I can't seem to find the right wheel Type on Google.
I'm looking for a Super Single rear wheel for my 07 Dually that ISN'T the Big Rig Style. Or At least something smaller than a 19" rim. I don't like the look of 20's on the 3rd Gens.
What will I need to run it? Spacers or a special hub?
Any and all suggestions welcome! Thank you!
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Loss of power hesitation
I have a 94 2500 automatic truck seems to run fine for a little while after driving it a little ways and holding a constant speed of 70 it seems to hesitate once in a while at times you feel it hesitate and try to floor it to keep up with traffic and it won't do anything rpm stays the same then if you back off throttle slow to about 50 then throttle it up it takes off back to 70 new fuel filters thinking that was the case but no change cleaned the pre screen bowl by the mechanical pump and no change truck doesn't do it all the time just from time to time rpm works and don't bounce ac works alternator charges around 13 I'm going to test it and battery today to see if voltage is low trans was rebuilt year ago truck just started this a week ago would it be the crank sensor? Where is that sensor and how do you test it? Could it be just a fuel problem in the line back to the tank? Or injector? Need help asap truck has to pull camper to Virginia for work have to be on that job next week
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Stranded
Hi all in Stillwater anyone know where I can get a innercooler pipe? Outlaw is closed today
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Popular diesel products
Alright guys and gals, as a diesel truck enthusiast what are the main parts you cant live without when upgrading your truck?
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Recall for aftermarket 8.5 + Steering right tierod
FYI
Just saw this recall for right tierod on aftermarket 08.5 + upgraded right steering tierod.
No info yet on how to ID part if you have bad part.
Report Receipt Date: JUN 27, 2018
NHTSA Campaign Number: 18E049000
Component(s): STEERING
Manufacturer: Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC
SUMMARY:
Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC (Federal-Mogul) is recalling certain Tie Rod Ends,
NAPA part number 269-6121,
AC Delco part number 45A3098,
McQuay-Norris part number ES4686E,
Raybestos part number 410-1099,
Moog part numbers DS300044, DS800980A, and DS800981A.
The crimped portion of the right hand outer tie rod replacement part may loosen allowing the inner and outer portions of the assembly to separate.
CONSEQUENCE:
If the inner and outer portions separate, it can cause a loss of steering ability, increasing the risk of a crash.
REMEDY:
Federal-Mogul will notify its distributors, and provide cards for the distributors to notify the customers that purchased the parts. The right hand outer tie rods subject to this recall installed on vehicles will be replaced at no cost to the vehicle owners. The recall is expected to begin August 8, 2018. Owners may contact Federal-Mogul customer service at 1-877-489-6659.
NOTES:
Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to www.safercar.gov.
Just saw this recall for right tierod on aftermarket 08.5 + upgraded right steering tierod.
No info yet on how to ID part if you have bad part.
Report Receipt Date: JUN 27, 2018
NHTSA Campaign Number: 18E049000
Component(s): STEERING
Manufacturer: Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC
SUMMARY:
Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC (Federal-Mogul) is recalling certain Tie Rod Ends,
NAPA part number 269-6121,
AC Delco part number 45A3098,
McQuay-Norris part number ES4686E,
Raybestos part number 410-1099,
Moog part numbers DS300044, DS800980A, and DS800981A.
The crimped portion of the right hand outer tie rod replacement part may loosen allowing the inner and outer portions of the assembly to separate.
CONSEQUENCE:
If the inner and outer portions separate, it can cause a loss of steering ability, increasing the risk of a crash.
REMEDY:
Federal-Mogul will notify its distributors, and provide cards for the distributors to notify the customers that purchased the parts. The right hand outer tie rods subject to this recall installed on vehicles will be replaced at no cost to the vehicle owners. The recall is expected to begin August 8, 2018. Owners may contact Federal-Mogul customer service at 1-877-489-6659.
NOTES:
Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to www.safercar.gov.
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