Questions about exhaust

July 27, 2018, 7:25 am

≪ Previous: Recall for aftermarket 8.5 + Steering right tierod

So I’m having a baby soon.
I just bought a stock 06 and want to be able to let it smoke a bit.
I’m planning on getting a smarty, but i still have my stock exaust system.
Any way I can make it stay quiet, and still delete the cat? My main goal is to stay quiet and be able to smoke it out when I want to.
I know there’s no reason to make it smoke and bla bla bla but that’s what I’m aiming for. Thanks y’all I appreciate it !

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Loss of power

July 27, 2018, 7:57 am

≫ Next: QSB 6.7 marine Cummins

≪ Previous: Questions about exhaust

When pulling my 7000lb travel trailer to Oklahoma from Florida I passed a vehicle while going up a hill. I accelerated and downshifted while doing this. After I passed my CEL came on and it didn't have the power to keep speed up on cruise control. After a few minutes it would go back to normal. There where no codes and the CEL turned off after a few restarts. Any thoughts?

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QSB 6.7 marine Cummins

July 27, 2018, 6:42 pm

≫ Next: New Suncoast tranny & converter, 1st thoughts.

≪ Previous: Loss of power

Does anyone have access to timing and duration maps through EFI live or other source?

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New Suncoast tranny & converter, 1st thoughts.

July 27, 2018, 6:44 pm

≫ Next: Edge comp box help

≪ Previous: QSB 6.7 marine Cummins

I finally got my truck back on the road. I took my time and dragged my feet, but I finally got it done. I work industrial maintenance for a living and sometimes I just don't feel like turning wrenches at home after doing it at work all day.

But let me tell you about my Suncoast transmission and torque converter. I bought the ones that are closest to stock. The converter is a triple disc.

When you pull the shifter into gear it jumps right into gear, no delay and just a little firmer than the OEM that was replaced. The shifts are much, much smoother. But lock up, oh man. It's much harsher, but not unpleasant. It kind of makes the rear end bounce when it goes into lock up.

I haven't towed with it; I will tomorrow.

The reason for the new transmission and converter was because the heat exchanger, aka torque converter cooler, filled the old ones with coolant.

I left the coolant lines connected to the heat exchanger. But I removed the transmission lines and capped the exchanger with -8AN caps. I couldn't budge the -8AN nuts where the transmission lines connected to the exchanger. To remove the transmission lines I had to break the tubes off near the nuts and then use an impact wrench to remove them. I then installed the -8AN caps, completing that task.

The rest has been covered in another thread and doesn't warrant repeating here unless someone is interested.

But I'm very happy with Suncoast so far.

I haven't added up all the receipts, but it'll be close to $7,000. I strongly recommend bypassing that exchanger.

Gil

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Edge comp box help

July 27, 2018, 6:46 pm

≫ Next: Turbo charger actuator and exhaust break.

≪ Previous: New Suncoast tranny & converter, 1st thoughts.

Hey I just bought a 2002 2nd gen and it had a Edge comp box already installed. While looking under the dash I noticed a wire was out. I don't know where the wire went or where it goes. Does it need to be connected for it to work properly? It looks too short to reach the back of the box. Thanks.

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Turbo charger actuator and exhaust break.

July 27, 2018, 7:12 pm

≫ Next: 2013+ ball joints

≪ Previous: Edge comp box help

Keep thinking about the workings of the exhaust brake (EB). Does there not also have to be some interaction with the transmission, i.e. the controls telling the tranny not to shift when in exhaust break, else the tranny just free wheels.

A diesel mechanic shop replaced the turbo in my 08 a month or so ago. A week later I was back in getting it replaced (warranty) again. Apparently there was in issue with the actuator on the first replacement. Still, the engine brake has not worked since the first change out. Recently it was determined the brake pedal switch was showing the brakes being applied at all times so the switch was replaced. The thought was that maybe the brake switch was causing EB not to engage since the computer thought the pedal was always depressed.

Several times since the change out, I've been driving down the road and suddenly the engine lost power and started blowing smoke. It would not drive over about 10 to 15 mph. After I pulled over, checked codes, and restarted, it ran fine. Sometimes it would be a week or more between these events, now it's been twice in two days. I've been a constant presence at the mechanic's over this. When this happened yesterday, it was like full engine brake; the engine even pinged with a hard labor knock (glad I was strapped in.) It rarely throws a code when it does this but then will throw the P2262 Turbo boost pressure not detected - Mechanical code an hour (or several) later. By the time I get the truck back to the Diesel mechanic, it's running fine (except the exhaust brake). Probably should mention the truck, 08 Dodge 4x4, is deleted and has a mini max tuner. Other than this major pain, it's been running like a scalded dog the past 100k since the mini max was installed. I've tracked down a much better, reputable, reliable diesel mechanic 30 miles away but the concerned is (his and mine) if it is the turbo again, I'll be on the hook for another $2.5k on top of what I paid this first guy... although at the rate I'm going that may be my only option.

Yesterday, when it stalled out, I rolled down the windows and listened for the turbo; I could hear it spin up but the boost graph on mini max did not show any boost (this was in park.)

Any ideas on how to fix this that does not involve getting a new one?

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2013+ ball joints

July 27, 2018, 7:14 pm

≫ Next: Engine Misfire

≪ Previous: Turbo charger actuator and exhaust break.

Is there any update on the new ball joints?

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Engine Misfire

July 27, 2018, 9:18 pm

≫ Next: Howling type of engine noise

≪ Previous: 2013+ ball joints

I was driving back from Phoenix to Los Angeles, when the check engine light turned on. I didn't have my scanner and on a sunday no where to stop.

Got home and I pulled the codes. Got a misfire on Cylinder 2. Permanent and current codes.

I tried looking into it online and I don't see much. Some just say injectors. Engine has 7,000 miles.

Obviously it's going into the dealer this monday.

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Howling type of engine noise

July 27, 2018, 9:28 pm

≫ Next: Safety Recall - Steering Tie-Rod

≪ Previous: Engine Misfire

Need some advice. I just travelled from Vancouver, BC through Seattle-Tacoma area, and developed a noise along the way, that sounds a lot like a howling wind. It was a fairly hot day, and I was towing a 10,000 lb 5th wheel. The truck is a 2010 3500 with 48k miles, all stock.

Has anyone experienced this type of noise, or have an idea what to look for?

The thought of going home past Seattle and breaking down with no place to pull over would be a nightmare for me not to mention the poor commuters.

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Safety Recall - Steering Tie-Rod

July 27, 2018, 9:56 pm

≫ Next: Dually

≪ Previous: Howling type of engine noise

Safety Recall - Steering Tie-Rod

Years 2003 to 2011 4WD, Some 2012

Part 573 Safety Recall Report 18E-049

Manufacturer Name : Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC

June 27, 2018 NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18E049000
Tie Rod may Loosen and Separate
If the inner and outer portions separate, it can cause a loss of steering ability, increasing the risk of a crash.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 18E049000

Manufacturer Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC

Components STEERING

Potential Number of Units Affected 26,118

Summary

Federal-Mogul Motorparts LLC (Federal-Mogul) is recalling certain Tie Rod Ends, NAPA part number 269-6121, AC Delco part number 45A3098, McQuay-Norris part number ES4686E, Raybestos part number 410-1099, and Moog part numbers DS300044, DS800980A, and DS800981A. The crimped portion of the right hand outer tie rod replacement part may loosen allowing the inner and outer portions of the assembly to separate.

Remedy

Federal-Mogul will notify its distributors, and provide cards for the distributors to notify the customers that purchased the parts. The right hand outer tie rods subject to this recall installed on vehicles will be replaced at no cost to the vehicle owners. The recall is expected to begin August 8, 2018. Owners may contact Federal-Mogul customer service at 1-877-489-6659.

Notes

Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to www.safercar.gov.

5 Affected Products
Equipments
BRAND PART NO. PRODUCTION DATES

AC DELCO TIE ROD END 07/10/2013 - 01/31/2018
MCQUAY-NORRIS TIE ROD END 07/10/2013 - 01/31/2018
MOOG TIE ROD END 07/10/2013 - 01/31/2018
NAPA TIE ROD END 07/10/2013 - 01/31/2018
RAYBESTOS TIE ROD END 07/10/2013 - 01/31/2018

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Dually

July 27, 2018, 10:21 pm

≫ Next: Safety Recall - Steering Tie-Rod

≪ Previous: Safety Recall - Steering Tie-Rod

Hello, not sure where to post. I have a 2006 dodge 3500 Laramie. It runs but in the morning or late at night it will take several minutes before it cranks. All the lights turn on but no traceable problems on the long start. Even the dealership could not find anything. I plugged it in and started right up early in the morning. but its the summertime now. I cant figure it out. Help?

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Safety Recall - Steering Tie-Rod

July 27, 2018, 10:27 pm

≫ Next: OBD Scanner

≪ Previous: Dually

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OBD Scanner

July 27, 2018, 10:37 pm

≫ Next: That's me

≪ Previous: Safety Recall - Steering Tie-Rod

Hey all,

Just curious if anyone has ever tried this piece of kit..? As some of us may know our trucks were not equipped with OBDII but instead a 6 pin connector for OBD Gen 1 using the DRBII scan tool just under the hood drivers side fender by hood hinge. The computer does not tell us that much information as it does not control all that much... but I saw this and was wondering if it would even work? It is an adaptor for the 6 pin to a OBDII style port. Is it a joke..? I'm not all that familiar with how data transfer works or how data is communicated from a vehicles computer to a scan tool but I'd like to learn more if anyone knows a good place to start. Link to the cable below.

Tyler,

Amazon

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That's me

July 28, 2018, 12:06 am

≫ Next: Muldoon Diesel 68RFE to Allison Swap Kit

≪ Previous: OBD Scanner

Hello cummunity, i am a new member from germany.
My truck:
Dodge Ram 2500 Crew Cab long bed 2010
6.7 cummins
Fully deleted (5" FloPro, Sinister Diesel) with H&S MiniMax
2" lifted
325/65 R18
Regards
Andreas

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Muldoon Diesel 68RFE to Allison Swap Kit

July 28, 2018, 6:12 am

≫ Next: Did I receive the wrong fuel filters?

≪ Previous: That's me

Saw a FB post by John Muldoon Diesel working on a direct bolt up like factory integrated Allison swap as an option instead of shelling out upwards of $10k for a built 68rfe. This would be a good compromise instead of a 48re swap still giving us a 6 speed transmission and have a lot more robust transmission that is a lot cheaper to be built to handle the same horsepower. Kit is suppose to be as seamless and intended as like it came from the factory. Should be interesting as he has a good reputation in the 48re world and is venturing out into Allison transmissions.

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Did I receive the wrong fuel filters?

July 28, 2018, 6:20 am

≫ Next: Won’t start

≪ Previous: Muldoon Diesel 68RFE to Allison Swap Kit

Ordered from Amazon, two different sellers.

I ordered MO-867 from Seller One and received a genuine MOPAR MO-867.

From Seller Two I ordered MO-291. What I received was a fuel filter with no markings on it, in a box that only appears to have a stock number on it, see below. There is nothing stamped anywheres on the filter, nothing else on the box, no packing slip on the box.

Interesting enough, in the same box I also got what appears to be a knockoff MO-867 as well. It has the part numbers for Baldwin, WIX, and Carquest printed on it. Also the O-Ring on the seat in front of it was on the bottom of the box it came in, not exactly reassuring when you see it compared to how the MOPAR one came.

Normally I would be upset and return them, but I waited a week plus for them to get here, my truck is at 15,266 miles, and I dont have a ton of time to get them installed. Plus, I only paid $48 and got both (knockoff) fuel filters, even though I thought I was only getting the one genuine MOPAR MO-291.

Would you guys install these or send them back? Its going to be at least a week, maybe 250 miles of driving, before I can get them done again and thats assuming that theyll arrive this week. Everything I have read says dont cheap out on fuel filters, but since Im already over my miles, a fresh knock off has to be better than the factory one thats never been changed right?

The other problem is if I install them, I obviously cant return them. I could buy the MO-291 from the dealership, but it would only wind up costing me more money and Id still have to deal with returning these.

This is the first time that Ive had to do fuel filters on any vehicle, and definitely dont want to mess up my truck by installing something cheap, but am I doing any harm by going past the 15k mile service interval?

Thanks in advance for your advice everyone.

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Won’t start

July 28, 2018, 7:08 am

≫ Next: Installed grid heater momentary switch , wait to start light blicking on dash

≪ Previous: Did I receive the wrong fuel filters?

2012 larime 3500 dually, remote start .. started right up, then had to shut it down.. tried starting back up 5 minutes later just clicked.. jump started on drivers side battery started right up.. after work it wouldn’t start again.. thinking 2 new batteries ...right?

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Installed grid heater momentary switch , wait to start light blicking on dash

July 28, 2018, 8:31 pm

≫ Next: Oil pressure gauge trouble

≪ Previous: Won’t start

Grid heaters work on momentary switch but light blicking on dash . What is done with the black ground wires that went to the grid heater relay ? I ran new wires from grid heater relay to momentary switch in cab to ground . Is this right ? Insread of running wires to ground should I connect them to the Black ground wires ? thanks

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Oil pressure gauge trouble

July 28, 2018, 9:32 pm

≫ Next: What is Normal MPG?

≪ Previous: Installed grid heater momentary switch , wait to start light blicking on dash

Hey guys so today I was driving and my oil pressure went to 0-then to 100 and is staying there now. Even with the truck engine not running. And in the on position. I checked the gauge on the edge and it also says 100.

I have heard a few thing maybe a alternator or pcm or ecm? Any ideas

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What is Normal MPG?

July 28, 2018, 9:34 pm

≫ Next: Installed - Aries Switchback Headache Rack - Pics!!!

≪ Previous: Oil pressure gauge trouble

So I just bought this truck a few months ago and only ran two tanks through it so far.. about half and half highway and city miles but first tank I hand calculated at 15.5 and the second tank was about 14.5 is this pretty normal for a stock 06 5.9 with 4” lift on 35s its got a power puck on it but that’s it for tuning I would like to go with efi live when ever I get myself to spend the money! I am pretty light on the throttle for the most part.. how much better mpg do you guys think I could gain if I put efi on it?

If I’m posting this in the wrong place let me know I’m kinda new to this forum and love it so far ppl are very helpful!!

Thanks

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