Noticed today that my 2nd gen is stutter shifting from 2nd - 3rd gear. When I’m going about 50-60 mph it will shift to 3rd then back to 2nd sporadically. I also noticed that as the truck warmed up more,( I do not live in a cold climate) it went away. Any thoughts on what this could be?
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2nd gen cummins stutter shift 2nd - 3rd
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Looking at Dales Superstore
I've been looking at a Raceme Ultra delete kit from Dales Superstore. From what I have been reading Raceme is great on 2017 3500 6.7. If anyone could give some feedback or point me in the right direction that would be great. I'm not looking to add mass amount of power. looking at doing a DPF/DEF/EGR delete with stock power tune. Thanks.
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aux fuel tank plumbing help!!!
hey guys i just put a rds 60 gallon tank toolbox combo in my truck and i'm having trouble plumbing it. i have to follow dot regs so gravity feed is out. so i have a holley fuel pump mounted in the toolbox above the tank and tee'd into the 3/4 in vent line of the filler neck. i thought i would be able to just turn the pump on as i drove and shut it off when the main tank was full but instead when i turn the pump off it siphons thru the pump. does anyone have any cheap and easy ideas? i found a couple of shut off solenoids wich will be my worst case.
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Need help with my front axle
Guys, my truck is a 2004 Turbo Diesel HO 4x4 6spd Quad Cab 8ft bed with 240k miles.
My front end is making all kinds of noise; always has, but now it's getting bad. I've had U joints replaced 3 separate times in the past 80k. The ones I have in there now are obviously shot. Looked into locking hubs, but they cost way more than they ought to and I dont want to lose the ability to switch in-cab.
Please see this video:
https://youtu.be/7OFuUULU-74
I found a diagram of my axle: https://s3.amazonaws.com/aamsiteasse...0329164004.pdf
however, I do not see any parts being shown at the ends of the axle goes into the beam. They dont just float in there, do they?
Could use help with a quality part number for the U-Joints and figuring out how to eliminate that play.
My front end is making all kinds of noise; always has, but now it's getting bad. I've had U joints replaced 3 separate times in the past 80k. The ones I have in there now are obviously shot. Looked into locking hubs, but they cost way more than they ought to and I dont want to lose the ability to switch in-cab.
Please see this video:
https://youtu.be/7OFuUULU-74
I found a diagram of my axle: https://s3.amazonaws.com/aamsiteasse...0329164004.pdf
however, I do not see any parts being shown at the ends of the axle goes into the beam. They dont just float in there, do they?
Could use help with a quality part number for the U-Joints and figuring out how to eliminate that play.
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New/Used truck or extended warranty
Hi guys, need some opinions here. I've got only 14K km left on my 5yr/100K KM warranty, truck is sitting at 87K KM, should I shop around for a new or newer truck? Or bite the bullet on an extended warranty through Chrysler? The most expensive I was quoted was for another 5yr/100K at just under $5000 CAD, and I still have money left owing on my truck, I don't want to disclose how much but I am hoping to avoid having a truck I'm paying for, and not having a warranty. For the record I've only had couple issues that were covered under warranty, 1 was an issue with my tranny locking into 4th and needing a new shift solenoid, but I love my truck and everything about it minus the crappy dealer paint chipping.
All thoughts or opinions are welcome... and go!
All thoughts or opinions are welcome... and go!
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New dodge different problems:(
Hey guys, been a minute since I've been on here. The good news is i got another cummins. Beautiful 98.5 single cab 5 speed base model with only 94,000 miles on it! The bad news is on my home from buying the truck in bfe Alabama all hell broke loose. When i bought the truck i knew the fuel gauge and tachometer were in and out. On the way home it started dead pedaling. Not complete dead pedal but i only had use of maybe 25% throttle. Against my better judgement i proceeded to limp it the rest of the 4 hrs home. The next morning i disconnected the batteries and reset the APPS. This made a world of difference but the throttle would still drop out sporadically. So i ordered a timbo apps and installed/calibrated only to still have the same issue. I don't currently own a code reader so i ran to O'reillys and had my buddy pull codes. This is where things really go downhill. P1693 (?), PO336 (crank position sensor), PO118(coolant temp sensor), PO113(iat sensor), P1698 (?), PO216 (Fi pump timing), P1690 (Fi pump not agreeing with ecm). Checked fuel pressre and im only getting 10psi at idle from a fass factory replacement lift pump. So my first step is to get a good fass frame rail mounted unit. My issue is whether the problem is the ecm, the vp44, or both. Ive checked and cleaned all grounds. The fact that it is throwing codes for every sensor on the engine leads me to believe the ecm went stupid on me. But the pump death codes and somewhat low fuel pressure tells me that the vp is bad. If anybody has any advice or could point me in the right direction before i start throwing money at this thing it would be much appreciated.
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Air Horns??.....mmm
So Im contemplating getting air horns...gonna have on board air...so Ill have the air supply...but Im not sure if thats super dumb to do or not. Would be fun to lay into an air horn when idiots cut me off towing a 38 gooseneck or 5er! But maybe its super dumb and a waste of money.
Anybody regret doing air horns? Have any advantages or disadvantages? Never heard anyone tsk about them...are they super dumb and considered stupid? Or is it just people with YouTube channels that do it? Lol
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Anybody regret doing air horns? Have any advantages or disadvantages? Never heard anyone tsk about them...are they super dumb and considered stupid? Or is it just people with YouTube channels that do it? Lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Is there anyone in Oregon who can help
I Need someone who had the correct equipment to hook up to my truck and ready the stored faults and transmission faults my regular scanner isn't doing it my truck is stuck in limp mode with zero codes popping up im out of ideas
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Ram Cummins & CEL codes
Hello everyone,
I finally picked up a Cummins truck which I have wanted for a while. It's a 2011 Ram 3500 Laramie, 6.7L, 68RFE with 97k on the clock.
The truck was purchased from a used mom and pop dealer lot, equipped with the RaceMe Ultra, and AFE turbo back exhaust. It also had the "unplug" delete.
I have since fully deleted it including the TV delete. Now I am having some issues with an intermittent CEL.
*Pre-delete*
When I first bought the truck, I downloaded and installed the newest software from RaceMe and reflashed the ECM. I had used a Macbook, and within a few days received a CEL and intermittent codes of P0507 & P0506.
The only thing I could find on the web was someone else had received those codes after using a Mac for their update.
*Post-delete*
So to attempt to correct this, I redownloaded the update from my PC installed it on to the SD card and reflashed the ECM again.
Now I am having an issue with a intermittent P0507 code. "Idle speed higher than expected".
My normal idle on the truck is right about 700RPM, however when I notice the CEL light illuminate, its normally when I pull into a spot, put the truck in park and notice the truck is idling about 750, and slowly decreases it's idle to 700-720ish.
I emailed RaceMe to see if they can shed some light on the issue. However I figured I'd post here as well seeing as I couldn't find much in the search.
Thanks for your time helping out a newbie to the oil burner world.
I finally picked up a Cummins truck which I have wanted for a while. It's a 2011 Ram 3500 Laramie, 6.7L, 68RFE with 97k on the clock.
The truck was purchased from a used mom and pop dealer lot, equipped with the RaceMe Ultra, and AFE turbo back exhaust. It also had the "unplug" delete.
I have since fully deleted it including the TV delete. Now I am having some issues with an intermittent CEL.
*Pre-delete*
When I first bought the truck, I downloaded and installed the newest software from RaceMe and reflashed the ECM. I had used a Macbook, and within a few days received a CEL and intermittent codes of P0507 & P0506.
The only thing I could find on the web was someone else had received those codes after using a Mac for their update.
*Post-delete*
So to attempt to correct this, I redownloaded the update from my PC installed it on to the SD card and reflashed the ECM again.
Now I am having an issue with a intermittent P0507 code. "Idle speed higher than expected".
My normal idle on the truck is right about 700RPM, however when I notice the CEL light illuminate, its normally when I pull into a spot, put the truck in park and notice the truck is idling about 750, and slowly decreases it's idle to 700-720ish.
I emailed RaceMe to see if they can shed some light on the issue. However I figured I'd post here as well seeing as I couldn't find much in the search.
Thanks for your time helping out a newbie to the oil burner world.
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White Smoke under hood / Diesel Smell in Cab
Hello all,
I have a 2008 Ram 2500 Megacab with the 6.7l engine. Since I bought it last month, there has been intermittent white smoke coming out from under the hood on the driver side, very near where the batteries are. When this happens, a strong diesel exhaust smell comes in the cab, even with the heater/AC OFF.
There is no loss of power. No CEL. Only a "Perform Service" warning on the overhead display console. I have a 75 mile beach trip coming up this Wednesday. Is this something that needs to be addressed immediately?
Truck seems to be running fine otherwise.
I have a 2008 Ram 2500 Megacab with the 6.7l engine. Since I bought it last month, there has been intermittent white smoke coming out from under the hood on the driver side, very near where the batteries are. When this happens, a strong diesel exhaust smell comes in the cab, even with the heater/AC OFF.
There is no loss of power. No CEL. Only a "Perform Service" warning on the overhead display console. I have a 75 mile beach trip coming up this Wednesday. Is this something that needs to be addressed immediately?
Truck seems to be running fine otherwise.
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2006 cummins engine wiring harness diagram
I recently got a 2006 dodge 2500 that had a small engine fire, burnt engine harness and shorted computer (what I was told). The replacement harness that’s on it is the wrong one I believe. I need a engine harness diagram. Truck also needs fuel pressure sensor, valve cover and a few other things. All and any help would be greatly appreciated. Located in Tuscaloosa, al. Thanks!!
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Grease on Inside of Rear Rotors
I took off my rear rotors today to replace them and found a lot of what smells like high temp grease inside the passenger side rotor and a little bit in the driver side.
Is this normal? logic would tell me no. Just not sure if these trucks use grease for the parking brake or whatever else.
truck is a 2014 ram 2500 2wd with 89k miles on it in overall very good condition.
the brakes were done at the dealer 1000 miles (at 80k miles) before i bought the truck (at 81k miles) so everything in there is pretty fresh. the rotors had become warped and got quite annoying at every stop which is why i removed them
could this be bearing and/or axle grease maybe? any suggestions?
first three pics are passenger side. last two are driver side
Is this normal? logic would tell me no. Just not sure if these trucks use grease for the parking brake or whatever else.
truck is a 2014 ram 2500 2wd with 89k miles on it in overall very good condition.
the brakes were done at the dealer 1000 miles (at 80k miles) before i bought the truck (at 81k miles) so everything in there is pretty fresh. the rotors had become warped and got quite annoying at every stop which is why i removed them
could this be bearing and/or axle grease maybe? any suggestions?
first three pics are passenger side. last two are driver side
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Tappets on a hpcr 24 valve 5.9
This may be a really stupid question but does the 03 have a tappet cover?
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Speedo problems
Hey guys I put a 1999 auto transmission and transfer case and put it in a 1996 Cummins and my issue is the 96 speed sensor was on the back of the t case and the 99 didn’t have one any ideas on what to do thanks
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68rfe harsh vibration and random hard starting
When doing about 80 accelerating it will shake very harsh for about 5 seconds then stop. Tranny is healthy otherwise. Any ideas on what the vibration is. Also just randomly it will turn over for like 7 seconds before it starts
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In serious need of advice
I'm new to the Cummins gang, which I'll make very obvious shortly. I bought an '06 3500 with supposedly 126k very resently, like 800miles ago to be exact. Immediately the mph were off considerably from 5-15mph. I had a the check engine light pop up within 60miles. Stop at the local parts house to have it scanned. 17 codes popped up, ranging from battery voltage hi and low, airbags, mismatched VIN or missing vin, missing vehicle configuration. Some said stored, what does that mean? Taken care of, or put on the back burner? Dealer/mechanic says oh it's nothing, it tripped because you turned the a.c. on.Within 600 miles i notice that my odometer is rolling almost 2 to 1 miles actually driven. It had beat up nasty 32"s on r18s when purchased. I replaced those with 35 12.5 r18. Mph are now reading correctly but it's still rolling almost 2 to 1miles??? Major problem, 800miles in I'm cruising 50mph, controlled roll on the throttle to push it to 65mhp. Ole girl Let loose some sort of whoosh noise, bellowing plumes of white out the pipe and gained a rather hefty knock. Gauges never changed..I had her on the side of the road shut down within 20seconds. Towed her to dealer\mechanic. Says he believes i sucked the tip off of an injector, possibly down into a cylinder and lost the whole show. Sucked a tip off, is this even possible? I'm thinking something real shady has been done and is fixing to continue. Any advice is greatly appreciated.. Do Cummins lose injectors at 126k? How can the odo read 2 to 1and how can that be fixed? My heart is hurtn, Much respect fellas!
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Mitten state new guy
What's up everyone? I've been patiently awaiting the day I could post here with as a serious potential new owner. Hell, my wife got a diesel before me even hahaha!
I'm looking into this truck as a new daily/tow pig. I've got a 32 foot pull behind camper and a small family. This is an 08 Big Horn with 123k miles. Dealer is asking 23,9xx but with my connections to the dealer I'm guessing 20k isn't out of the question for it. It's got brand new steering parts (pitman, drag link, tie rod, ends, and stabilizer), air lift bags in back, dpf is gone, bilstein 5100s all the way around. 315s with at least 70% tread, tint, visors, and Line-x in the bed with a b&w turnover.
It is a little crusty under the flares but it's solid and the rockers and cab corners are still in really good shape. It's a local one owner. My guy sold it to him brand new. It's always been serviced regularly and well cared for. I couldn't find a scuff anywhere.
Is this thing worth the money? If so what do I need to watch out for? I never got big into the 6.7s so I'm pretty green with them. I'm mechanically inclined and can do any job my tools are capable of. I've been in engines, transmissions and semis even. Just trying to nail down some common problem areas to look for before I go spending a ton of money. The underside looks pretty darn spotless leaks wise.
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I'm looking into this truck as a new daily/tow pig. I've got a 32 foot pull behind camper and a small family. This is an 08 Big Horn with 123k miles. Dealer is asking 23,9xx but with my connections to the dealer I'm guessing 20k isn't out of the question for it. It's got brand new steering parts (pitman, drag link, tie rod, ends, and stabilizer), air lift bags in back, dpf is gone, bilstein 5100s all the way around. 315s with at least 70% tread, tint, visors, and Line-x in the bed with a b&w turnover.
It is a little crusty under the flares but it's solid and the rockers and cab corners are still in really good shape. It's a local one owner. My guy sold it to him brand new. It's always been serviced regularly and well cared for. I couldn't find a scuff anywhere.
Is this thing worth the money? If so what do I need to watch out for? I never got big into the 6.7s so I'm pretty green with them. I'm mechanically inclined and can do any job my tools are capable of. I've been in engines, transmissions and semis even. Just trying to nail down some common problem areas to look for before I go spending a ton of money. The underside looks pretty darn spotless leaks wise.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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what ive been doing to my truck
install a banks ram intake elbow and fuel rail plug did the grid heater delete. and started painting my block. and had my hitch powder coated.
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Directions For Factory Remote Start Install
Does anyone have access to the install directions for the factory remote start? I know I will have to have the truck flashed with the sales code, but I just need to have the hardware installation instructions.
This is for a 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie.
Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is for a 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie.
Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Dana 70 HELP
Hey guys, I’m looking for a useable Dana 70 rear. My pinion decided that it wanted to go and take the housing with it so we can’t get the interior race in and happy without having the preload spike to 60in/lbs. if anyone out towards the Las Vegas area has one or knows of one I’d appreciate it if you’d let me take it off your hands.
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